Surfing is not a sport. It is a lifestyle. It inspires us to travel beyond the beaten track, in search of our own slice of paradise. Surfing is freedom.
It is also one of the most challenging pastimes to partake in. In our quest to tame Mother Nature, we are not only battling the ocean, but also ourselves.
Surfing is symbolic of life's many lessons. It requires patience, courage, determination and commitment to put yourself in position and paddle over the ledge, hauling yourself into imminent danger.
If I didn't surf, I don't know what my life would be like. Perhaps I would be too caught up in the rigours of routine to even spare surfing a second thought.
Either that, or I'd be walking past this empty peak in oblivion like these two.